Architectural Gardens

Pruning Shrubs – The Long and Short of It

michele — Wed, 21 Mar 2012 03:32:17 +0000

Pruning is a very broad and sometimes confusing topic to the home gardener. Before you get crazy with your (hopefully sharpened) pruners and shears, here are some basic guidelines.

Tip #1: Why prune?
Pruning will promote a long-lived, healthy shrub by opening up the shrub to light and air and keeping the plant shapely and rejuvenated.

Above is a yew hedge pruned for the upcoming growing season.

We have all seen shrubs that look okay from far away but closer inspection reveals a sparse interior. All plants can benefit from the removal of dead and/or cross branching stems and a thinning of crowded stems to create better air circulation and allow light penetration. Poor air circulation and lack of sunlight creates an environment that is conducive to disease and die-back.

Have you ever wondered why your previously spring-blooming shrub suddenly stopped blooming? There can be other causes, but you may have simply pruned it at the wrong time of the year. This is the most common pruning mistake.

Tip #2: Know when your plant blooms.
Is it a spring-flowering shrub? Summer or fall flowering? Does it bloom on old wood or new wood?

Most people prune too early or too late, unknowingly removing flower buds. Here are some guidelines:

Spring flowering shrubs – prune within two months after they bloom. They flower on the previous year’s growth (old wood.) These plants are: rhododendron/azalea, Hydrangeas ‘Endless Summer’ & ‘Oakleaf’, lilacs, Spirea ‘Bridalwreath’, deutzia, forsythia, daphne and native shrubs such as clethra, itea, viburnum and fothergilla.
Summer flowering shrubs – prune these shrubs in the early spring. These shrubs bloom on new growth. They include: roses, hypericum, buddleia, callicarpa, potentilla, spirea japonica, and certain hydrangeas – ‘Tardiva,’ ‘Limelight,’ & ‘Annabelle.’
Evergreen shrubs – most benefit from pruning in early spring which can be structural or a hard prune. These evergreens include: yew, holly, photinia and boxwood.

Pruning inkberry–a member of the Ilex (holly) evergreen family. Note the amount of pruned material on the ground.

Some shrubs benefit from a hard prune (think buzz cut). You may sacrifice flowers for a spring blooming shrub but the plant will rebound and you will have a more uniform habit with a better bloom set the following year.

The picture below shows a foundation planting of inkberry (holly) evergreens. Note that the plants appear overgrown and spindly.

This picture shows the same foundation planting with the Inkberry shrubs hard-pruned.

Tip #3: Know the plant’s natural form.
For best results, know the plant’s form and prune accordingly. Does the plant want to take a taller, vertical form or is it more of a globular or horizontal shape? Does the shrub naturally cascade?

Here is a full, well-shaped Inkberry shrub (in the corner of the photograph) in its second year after a rejuvenating prune.

Lastly, we have all seen shrubs that have been pruned into shapes that are not natural. Think about the forsythia that you have seen pruned into a ball. Although time-consuming, a structural pruning of interior crossing branches allows this plant to cascade as nature intended.

The Effect of a Mild Winter

michele — Thu, 23 Feb 2012 14:48:25 +0000

For the most part, this winter has been uncharacteristically mild with inadequate precipitation in our area. Jake Crouch, a climate scientist at the National Climatic Data Center in Asheville, NC states, “The Northeast region had their fifth warmest December on record, and January has been warmer than average.” This pattern has seemed to continue into February. Why has it been warm in the contiguous United States? Crouch says, “It is caused by the Arctic Oscillation, a pressure system that drives where the jet stream sets up across the United States. This year, it’s been keeping cold Arctic air fenced off at a much higher latitude than usual.”

Effect of a Mild Winter on Insects

Freezing temperatures typically kill off some insects, whereas, moderate temperatures allow insects to reproduce and multiply.
Mosquitoes, fleas and ticks could all be out in force much earlier than usual and the populations will increase in early summer instead of late summer.
Many researchers in agricultural science are concerned about early emerging pests taking a toll on plants. (Think stinkbugs!)

Effect of a Mild Winter on Plants

Spring flowering bulbs. We have all seen the spring flowering bulbs emerging and in some cases blooming. The foliage may get blemished along with blossoms, but they will survive—they are a hardy lot! This photo shows daffodils with tip damage.
Hellebores. Hellebores are commonly called Lenten rose for a reason. They bloom in the early spring. This year, the hellebores here at Architectural Gardens are already in full bloom but showing some leaf damage. They could also have their blossoms blemished by single-digit temperatures, but again, the plant will survive.
Perennials. What about perennials that have already sent up some shoots? Campanulas (bellflowers) have sent up shoots in my own rock garden which is amazing to see. If frigid temperatures return, there may be browning of these shoots. Placing mulch over the plants may protect the emergent growth from further damage. I’m just going to wait and see what happens.
Campanula (bellflower) shoots. Photo taken 2/22/12.

Herbs and vegetables. It is interesting to see lettuce planted in the fall still surviving and the fact that I can still harvest curly-leafed parsley from my own herb garden. At this time of the year, I usually have to wait to replant tender herbs in the spring—not so this year.
The picture to the left is curly-leafed parsley and the picture above is lettuce still growing and surviving among the violets at Architectural Gardens.

Spring-flowering shrubs. Regarding spring flowering shrubs, for example, forsythia–if flower buds have blossomed, they will not bloom again in spring.

Trees and shrubs. The issue of cold damage to buds and twigs of trees and shrubs is a little more complicated. Woody plants go through two phases in preparation for winter: onset of dormancy and cold acclimation or hardening. What is the effect when fall and early winter temperatures are above normal? The depth of hardiness is not very deep. Woody plants may experience damage due to cold weather especially if there is a precipitous drop in temperature. So, it will be interesting to see what happens with our trees and shrubs.

However, all is not lost. Those of us who love gardening have had a winter that has extended our gardening season and is allowing us to make some amazing observations. Opportunities abound and there is no excuse for not getting out and doing chores that might otherwise have had to wait until spring. Happy gardening!

Here is Michele’s container with heuchera, flowering kale, pansies and a dracaena spike. Normally the dracaena would have died; needing to be replaced in the spring. Photo 2/22/12.

Rain Garden Tips

admin — Fri, 25 Mar 2011 19:21:43 +0000

Designed to collect runoff from roofs, driveways and other hard surfaces, rain gardens are 3-12 inch deep, saucer-shaped depressions filled with loose soil, rocks and native plants. Approximately 70 percent of pollution is caused by storm water runoff. Rain gardens help to reduce storm water pollution by capturing the runoff before it enters the drains. Once captured, the runoff then filters through the plants and soil, recharging the ground water and improving the overall quality of the watershed by removing pollutants, such as, oil, heavy metal, and aqua eco-system damaging nutrients. Rain gardens also provide an attractive option for resolving many types of drainage issues and often attract birds, butterflies and beneficial insects.

Quick Tips for Planning a Rain Garden

Identify a low-lying area on your site that is able to catch runoff before it flows into storm drains or waterway
Rain gardens should be located at least 15-20 feet from the home with a grassy buffer or a rocky area where the runoff passes through before entering the garden
Consider positioning your garden so that any excess water will overflow away from your home
Determine the size (generally, 150-400 square feet), shape, depth and budget for your garden
Build a berm (low soil mound along the downhill side of the garden) and Dig the Garden!
Don’t forget, soil amendments such as sand and compost will improve overall drainage

For comprehensive information and instructions related to rainscaping, please visit the Chesapeake Ecology Center. If you would like to visit a rain garden, a good example is Brookside Gardens located in Montgomery County, Maryland.

Incorporating Native Plants

Native plants thrive in local environmental conditions and are able to tolerate fluctuations in climate and water levels. By incorporating a variety of plants in your rain garden design you will create visual interest and aesthetic value. Try these native plants when designing your garden:

Trees – Red Maple, River Birch, Sweet Bay Magnolia, American Holly
Shrubs – Red Twig Dogwood, Pussy Willow, Clethra, Itea, Aronia, Grasses, Winterberry Holly, Bayberry
Perennials – Hibiscus, Iris, Lobelia, Blackeyed Susans, Carex, Joy Pye Weed, Daylilly, Astilbe, Chelone, Creeping Jenny, Monarda

Shade Anyone?

admin — Sun, 20 Mar 2011 19:31:02 +0000

Getting out of the sun is often essential at this time of year unless you’re enjoying a swim, or sunbathing. Why not create a comfortable and relaxing atmosphere for that respite from the heat? If you don’t already have a spot in your yard such as this, here’s what to do:

Plant trees! The south and/or western side of the property is usually the hottest. Fast- growing canopy trees like river birch, sugar maple, honeylocust, and zelkova, provide the “ceiling” for this natural “outdoor room”
Keep the ground cool with understory shrubs, such as viburnum, rhododendron, mahonia, and hydrangea
Retain moisture below the mulch with groundcovers: columbine, epimedium, ferns, hosta, and lamium. These selections require less water, and need I say it?… help the environment

In or Out?

admin — Tue, 01 Feb 2011 03:59:02 +0000

It’s safe to say, during these winter weeks we all spend most of our time cooped up inside-whether at home, work, or foraging for necessities (shopping). This season does offer some different opportunities for venturing outside. If there isn’t a nearby park or trail within walking distance, here are some worth going the extra mile to see:

A Little Farther Away?…

In addition to the beautiful grounds, most places offer symposiums, lectures, and/or classes. These might help to define a reason for the visit. Ask us about our experiences, or opinions on lectures, etc. We could be your garden “travel agent”.

Come and See the Show…

Still can’t see yourself braving the elements for an outdoor venture? You can enjoy the springtime feel (indoors) by attending a garden show. Here is a short list to get things started:

March 3-6, 2011
Garden Show of York

March 4-6, 2011
Mid-Atlantic Home & Flower Show (VA Beach)

March 6-13, 2011
Philadelphia Flower Show

March 5-6 and 11-13, 2011
Maryland Home & Garden Show

Maybe we’ll see you there! If you see something you like, grab a brochure, take a picture, or anything else. There’s a lot of free stuff to take home!

Winter Tips

Watch out for that heavy snow, weighing down branches and clogging drains! Brushing off snow now will save structure damage and limit Springtime dieback and deformation. Also, keep a watchful eye on hanging or broken limbs and branches in mature trees.

Oregon: A 7-Day Extravaganza

admin — Wed, 01 Sep 2010 03:42:59 +0000

West coast geography is very different!

Tim and I just returned from a fabulous trip to Oregon for the annual Perennial Plant Association symposium. Self described as” plant nerds” or (plantaholics) we couldn’t resist a 7-day extravaganza visiting Oregon’s leading nurseries, garden centers, and tours of private and public gardens. We rubbed elbows with leaders in our industry: landscape designers, horticulturalist, and educators. Who could pass up breathtaking scenery, gorgeous weather, a lot of fine wine; we returned totally inspired. I wanted to share it with you.

About Oregon

A recreational paradise offering camp, bike, fish, golf, hike, river, snow, and surf activities

The growing conditions in Portland, Oregon are perfect to create these spectacular specimens.

Because of the unique soils, microclimate and elevations, Oregon is a top producer of 225 different agricultural commodities: grass seed, mint, nursery and landscape plants, nuts and berries, hops and wine grapes. The state leads the nation in craft microbreweries per capita and grows the finest Pinot Noir grape in the Willamette Valley.

The diversity of natural resources, in flora, fauna and the land itself, is one of the most valued experiences that Oregon has to offer visitors.

Grey to Green is a plan of action to maintain Portland as a national leader in green development practices & sustainable stormwater management. Solutions to restore watersheds, rivers and streams are to add more ecoroofs, construct green street facilities, plant yard & street trees, remove invasive plants and increase native plants, replace culverts and protect natural areas.

Highlights of Our Oregon Trip

The green rooftop at the Oregon Health and Science University

Visit our online photo album to see additional pictures of our trip.

An amazing tour to see spectacular natural scenery

Columbia River Gorge National Scenic Area and the Multnomah Falls, City of Hood River and Mt. Hood.

Urban Solutions for Greener Cities Tour

Eco-roofs at the Port of Portland Building, M Financial Building, Oregon Health & Science University, and the Multnomah County Building.

Perennial Professional Tour

Cistus Nursery is a retail and mail order micro-nursery specializing in Mediterranean type plants and hardy tropicals that thrive in the northern Willamette Valley.
Joy Creek Nursery started by gardeners for gardeners, the primary focus is education, has 4.5 acres of display gardens, over 7,000 species, and weekly workshops.
Monrovia Nursery has 500 acres of container production, a tissue culture laboratory, produces 12 million liners annually, an award-winning office designed in the craftsman style and surrounding display gardens.
Washington Park features the oldest official public rose test garden in the USA with 6,800 rose bushes representing 557 varieties.
Terra Nova Nurseries is one of the world’s foremost breeders of new perennials: Heuchera, Tiarella, Echinacea, Coreopsis and Sedum.

Oswald West State Park to Astoria- The Oregon’s Coast

We skipped a day of inside lectures and drove north on Highway 101, parked and followed a trail into the forest of old-growth Sitka spruce, Douglas Fir, Western Hemlock and Red Cedar trees that extend all the way to a cove sheltered beach. The soothing forest on a hot summer day was full of pleasant surprises.

Private & Public Garden Tours

Sebright Gardens has many unusual and interesting plants with a heavy emphasis on hosta. Gunnera, lilies, and calla lilies grow like weeds!
The McKee Garden frames a gorgeous Willamette Valley outlook. It has a parterre garden outside the kitchen, natural rock work with great water falls and water courses, colorful perennial borders with Hazelnut shell mulching, chicken coop and a potters shed.
Northwest Garden is a densely planted collector’s garden with a design framework: a woodland garden filled with rare, shade loving perennials, a Mediterranean gravel garden with heat-adapted plants in poor soils and limited irrigation, a natural pond, and a hellebore breeding program.
Portland Japanese Garden is proclaimed as one of the most authentic Japanese gardens outside of Japan. A 5.5-acre haven of tranquil beauty in the scenic west hills, the garden is composed of five separate garden styles. Through the careful use of plants, stones and water, areas of serene and quiet beauty emerge.
The Hockensmith Garden an outstanding example of sustainable landscaping on a 40-acre property where both flora and fauna become a natural extension of the house, is featured in the Garden Design magazine May/June 2010 issue.

Tree Tip

admin — Fri, 30 Jul 2010 15:32:36 +0000

Last winter’s damage may recently have become more noticeable with the leaves fully flushed on larger trees. Limbs and branches that have been “hanging in there”, but haven’t survived past this latest dry spell, or that have recently been infested by hungry insects, could potentially be hazardous to you and your property. Consult a tree professional for a visual assessment of your trees’ health and your safety. As always, we recommend Bartlett Tree experts to handle these issues. After all, they’ve been doing it for over 100 years. Bartlett Tree experts may be contacted at (410)-305-0353 or www.bartlett.com.

Just Add Water

admin — Fri, 30 Jul 2010 15:31:59 +0000

Heat stress can be reduced psychologically with a trickling fountain, or cascading waterfall. Even just the sound of water adds a calm coolness to your surroundings. If you would enjoy a water feature in your outdoor space, but don’t have the budget for costly labor and materials, consider a self-contained fountain or pond-less waterfall, which is less expensive than custom-made versions. An added bonus is that these systems actually conserve water. Examples may be found at www.aquascapes.com and www.aquabelladesigns.com.

Don’t forget to situate a rain barrel or other water collecting device nearby, for infrequent top-offs of the water level.

Just A Thought (or two)…

admin — Fri, 30 Jul 2010 15:30:19 +0000

When one’s car is in need of a good washing, most of us forget how damaging soaps and other chemicals can be to the environment and even to our vehicles. Detergents and spray-on waxes create surface build-up on your vehicle and allow for the sun to literally bake the surface. Detergents also cause rubber parts and vinyl accessories to become brittle and less pliable and may also be harmful to paint finishes, causing a vunerability to the effects of the weather. For cleaning your car, both inside and out, all you need is a sponge or cloth, a bucket, and a hose with a tight sealed nozzle. Think about it. How clean can you get your vehicle before it’s time to do it again? Where does the water go after it cascades off your car? As long as you refrain from using chemically-based products, strategically placing your vehicle where the excess water can benefit your lawn or the plants nearby is a worthwhile routine. For example, by installing a rain garden or a dry stream adjacent to this area, water can be channeled and used yet again in surrounding plant beds.

Hot Enough?

admin — Fri, 30 Jul 2010 15:29:56 +0000

In the heat of the summer months, attention to irrigation is imperative to the health of your plants. To compensate for the lack of rain, irrigation systems require adjusting. Conserve water by following these simple steps:

Run your irrigation system at longer intervals for a fewer number of days
Water in the early hours of the morning, between 2 a.m. and 4 a.m is best
Watering in the sun on a hot day, turns water drops into magnifying glasses, causing irreparable scorching to leaf surfaces.
Clear leaf and limb debris from gutters, downspouts, catch basins, dry streams and pipe outlets
Inspect your roof for leaf build-up and clear if necessary. For high, hard to reach places, contact a professional